By Zak Stambor
Just like the unlikely second acts in the careers of Billy Ray Cyrus, Rush, and Rod Blagojevich, chances are, your dad’s favorite beer is back.
But while fabled brands like Rheingold, Old Style, and Primo Island Lager are experiencing a Hell Freezes Over-like rebirth, the breweries that produced them are long gone. Rather, companies like Drinks Americas Holding Ltd., which produces spirits such as Trump Super Premium Vodka and Willie Nelson’s Old Whiskey River Bourbon, and Pabst Brewing Company, owner of such beer brands as Lone Star, McSorley’s, and Colt 45, are resurrecting the classic brews following the unexpected resurgence of Pabst Blue Ribbon earlier this decade.
The what’s-old-is-new mantra is even spreading to newer beers aimed at recreating old-style tastes like Victory’s Throwback Lager and Trader Joe’s Simpler Times Lager.
The reason is nostalgia mixed with people’s preference for more flavorful beers, says Tyler Peters, brewery development manager at Minhas Craft Brewery, which has seen a recent uptick in sales of its Huber Bock, which the brewery has produced since 1947.
Beer brewed with adjuncts — unmalted grains such as rice, corn or barley used to cut brewing costs among macrobeers like Budweiser and Miller Genuine Draft — are simply lacking.
“A lot of beers were cheapened over the years and the taste got drowned out,” Peters says. “People like the taste of the grains. It’s not about making the cheapest thing possible, but making a handcrafted, quality product that people can always come back to.”
Although these old-new beers are certainly not craft brews, that movement has helped draw people’s attention to think about the flavor of their beer, says Kevin Kotecki, Pabst CEO.
“The craft beers have awakened America’s palettes,” he says.
An unlikely return
While Pabst was one of the largest American beer brands into the 1960s, by the mid-60s the company began a sales slide that lasted into this decade.
But unlike beers like Schlitz and Old Style that saw their recipes altered over the years to cut costs, PBR remained the same.
“It’s one of the few products that we didn’t tamper with over time,” says Kotecki.
Since the beer was cheap and seemed both retro and undersold, young, urban hipsters began turning to PBR in the early part of the decade. Thanks to double-digit growth in 2003 and 2004, the brand has steamrolled back to relevance as it’s increased its production 37 percent since 2003.
To keep up that hipster image, Pabst does very little. It sponsors NPR’s “All Songs Considered,” as well as bike polo and Rock Paper Scissors leagues. But mainly, it does nothing.
That’s exactly what sparked the resurgence in the first place.
“PBR came back because it wasn’t marketed,” says Bill Covaleski, Victory Brewing’s brewmaster. “Sometimes things just have to be discovered and can’t be marketed.”
That hasn’t stopped Pabst and Drinks Americas from marketing other beers that fell off the map in the last few decades.
Drinks Americas acquired the Rheingold brand three years ago. Since then it’s slowly let the beer produced by the previous owner of the name disappear from store shelves. Within the next year they aim to reintroduce the beer in Florida and the New York metropolitan area.
The Rheingold name has important, deep roots, says J. Patrick Kenny, Drinks Americas’ president and CEO.
“New Yorkers understand that if they see the Rheingold name on a label that it’s not going to be an overly pretentious, contrived beer,” he says. “It’s just an easy-to-drink American beer.”
Kenny expects New Yorkers who drank Rheingold to return the beer they remember and for the younger generation to turn to the beer because its part of their heritage.
“Currently there’s no beer that New Yorkers can call their own — but that’s what Rheingold is,” he says.
Despite the name recognition, the beer probably won’t return to its classic flavor profile. Instead, Kenny says it will reflect “what today’s consumers expect in a beer.”
Old style brewing
Drinks Americas’ Rheingold approach stands in sharp contrast to Pabst’s efforts to restore Old Style and Schlitz’s classic brewing styles.
Until Stroh’s bought Old Style in 1996, the lager was one of the few kraeusened domestic beers (Sam Adam’s Boston Lager is the only other one that Pabst brewmaster Bob Newman knows of). Kraeusening is an extra step in the brewing process that tacks on four to seven additional days of fermentation, but adds natural carbonation that produces what Newman considers a smoother, mellower taste.
After Stroh’s abandoned the traditional German brewing method, the brand’s sales fell into a steady downward arc.
But this January, Pabst relaunched the fully-kraeusened, old style Old Style. Doing so required capital improvements that allowed the brewery to add the additional time and space necessary to produce the beer.
“It’s an extra step that’s more intensive and costly, but gives the beer a better finish,” says Newman.
It’s also about brewing a quality beer that moves beyond pure nostalgia,
“You can’t sustain a brand based on nostalgia, it has to be more than that,” Kotecki says. “It’s about producing something that can establish ties that remain for life.”
Pabst used a similar philosophy last year when it restored Schlitz back to its classic formula.
“Schlitz was the largest beer brand in the world in 1960,” says Kotecki. “And people have fond memories of its taste.”
There was no written recipe for the classic Schlitz so to recreate the flavor Newman interviewed five different people who worked at the brewery in the 1960s. Then he found Schlitz’s former research and development director who “had the formula at the top of his head,” says Newman.
The beer is malty and slightly sweet, which is just how baby boomers remember it, says Kyle Wortham, Schlitz senior brand manager.
“Schlitz is full flavored, it’s not watered down and it’s not dressed up with packaging, gimmicks or boutique flavors,” he says.
It simply is what it is, says Wortham.
“It’s a beer that you can drink a few of, but that has flavor as well,” he says. “It’s just a real beer.”
Brewers versus marketers
For the past four years, Victory Brewing Company, which produces flavorful lagers such as Prima Pils, produces its draft-only Throwback Lager, a pre-prohibition-style lager for a party celebrating the ratification of the 21st Amendment which repealed the 18th Amendment.
Brewed with corn and a yeast strain used in the lagers produced by Philadelphia’s historic Christian Schmidt Brewing Company (which closed in 1987 after 127 years of operations), the beer’s old-style profile is approachable with mild fruit flavors.
“This is a beer that we intend for people who are not only willing to accept big flavors, but nuance as well,” Covaleski says.
While the taste is a throwback to the beers of yesteryear, Throwback Lager is different from other resurrected beers like Schlitz and Rheingold, says Covaleski.
“This is where marketers and craft brewers do similar things for different reasons,” he says. “We do it commemorate our history with an event. Marketers do it because they see it worked for another guy.”
– Zak Stambor, who lives across the street from a former Schlitz tied house, is glad that Schlitz is back so that the building’s facade no longer conjures up memories of Schlitz Bull Ice.