DRAFT Magazine

By Chet Clem

NEW YORK — A beer-pouring competition probably wasn’t what the architects of the New York Public Library had in mind when they engraved “The City of New York has erected this Building to be maintained forever as a free Library for the use of the People” into the marble wall of the iconic building, but the library was nonetheless the site of higher education on October 29th as 32 master bartenders from around the world competed in the 2009 Stella Artois World Draught Master competition. (See DRAFTmag.com’s coverage of the 2008 event.)

Held outside of Stella Artois’ native Belgium for the first time in the event’s 13-year history, the Draught Master competition came to New York to commemorate the 10th anniversary of Stella’s availability in the United States, and to demonstrate the proper way to serve a Stella.

The competition focused on the nine-step Pouring Ritual, a point of pride for Stella Artois that is unknown to your average bartender in the United States and involves more showmanship than one necessarily wants when thirsty. But, with the winner getting a one-year contract as a traveling ambassador for the beer, the competitors were dedicated to their craft and shaking off their nerves as the seven-hour competition began.

The nine-judge panel consisted of Stella Artois brewmasters, editors from leading publications such as Bon Appetit and Food & Wine, and “food concept architect” Dana McCauley who proved to be one of the toughest judges in addition to the only one who made up her own job title. Seriously, we asked her, and she said she “coined the term years ago” to more accurately describe her profession.

Hosted by the cheery duo of Jo Good and Tim Eyles, the execution of the well-designed event stumbled at points during the evening as technical difficulties and miscues lead to delays, and the Stella-fueled chatter of the audience drowned out the competitors’ answers about their passion for the Stella Artois brand. But that didn’t shake the spirit of the 32 masters, all of whom exhibited expert-level skill at the Ritual, having perfected their pours in the months leading up to the finals under the tutelage of experts from Stella Artois.

During the first round, four contestants at a time were given three minutes to pour two perfect Stella Artois, with two judges critiquing each of them on the nine steps: Purification, Sacrifice, Liquid Alchemy, The Head, Removal, The Beheading, The Judgment, The Cleansing, and Bestowal. The result is a perfectly poured Stella Artois, and proof that when you’re a beer that’s been around since 1366 you get to invent your own religious-like ceremony.

Greg Black, who defeated 26 other contestants in March to win the U.S. competition in March, was calm and confident going into the first round. “There are some very talented individuals here, some of the world’s best,” said Black, who proceeded to add dramatic pause and effect to his pour, even bobbing his head along with the house music and smiling at the audience in an attempt to add personality to his flawless mechanics. But in the end he could muster little more than a look of disbelief when McCauley and her judging partner handed down a shockingly low score eliminating him in the first round

The impact of the crowd was measurable, with the contestants’ fellow countrymen waving flags and becoming increasingly enthusiastic thanks to the complimentary Stella Artois. The crowd-favorite took first place in more than half of the 4-person contests, with especially boisterous showings from New Zealand, Canada, Hong Kong, and surprisingly Cyprus.

The Brazilian entourage was especially deep, and came with its own “Brazilian Lifestyle columnist” — which we assume is a popular profession in Brazil — in tow. They erupted into song when their contestant, Mario Souza, took to the taps. If Brazil didn’t have a national beer-pouring anthem already, this group composed one on the flight from São Paulo.

The Canadians were a close second in enthusiasm, doing their nation proud and inspiring their (admittedly loveable) contestant Joe Oppedisano with incredibly loud and characteristically positive cheers along the lines of “do what you love Joe, do what you love buddy” and “I want one of Joe’s beers, those look perfect.” Oppedisano would take home second place at the end of the night.

On the quieter end of the spectrum was Ankit Srivastav, the representative from India, whose manager Tarun Bhati told DRAFT that Ankit carries the nickname “42 Grams” for his diminutive stature and the 42 other contestants he beat to win the India competition. With his head barely clearing the top of the taps, he was eliminated in the first round, but remained positive about the competition. “A nice experience though,” said a disappointed Srivastav, and a chance for him and Bhati to tour New York City.

Not all contestants took themselves too seriously. The cheerful young woman representing Israel (who won DRAFTMag.com’s unofficial “contestant we’d most want to bring us a beer” award) told DRAFT she started bartending when she was 18 years old at establishment called “Tippy Bar.” With a sly grin, she told us that the nine-step pouring ritual was “not observed fully.”

Between rounds the organizers herded the crowd upstairs to the ornate Astor Room where an ice sculptor put the finishing touches on a frozen six-foot tall version of Stella’s iconic Chalice glass, and New York fashion designer Tim Hamilton unveiled his limited edition Chalice commissioned for the event.

Spectators were given the chance to try their hand at the nine-step ritual under the guidance of Anthony Alba, a past competitor in the Draught Master Competition who makes his living as a professional bartender and consultant. Alba could pour a perfect Stella Artois in his sleep, a skill that he nearly had to employ as by the time dinner wrapped up he looked completely exhausted from coaxing dozens of rookies through the process.

In the end it was Avril Maxwell, the New Zealand contestant from Christchurch’s Torenhorf Belgium Beer Café, who won the competition with her flawless pours, unbridled enthusiasm for Stella Artois, and passion for the art of bartending. Maxwell, who appeared genuinely surprised and overwhelmed by her victory, will spend the next year as a Stella Artois ambassador, traveling to 20 countries around the globe and educating others on how to pour the perfect chalice of Stella Artois.

It’s a tough job, but someone has to do it.

Chet Clem is DRAFTMag.com’s New York correspondent.